REVIEW: Nanoskin or CarPro Polyshave Decon Towel??

Dr_Pain

Certified Finest Installer
autogeek_2268_486387177

I've been a HUGE fan of clay alternative, ever since I've discovered Nanoskin. Like most of you I was initially questioning the exorbitant cost associated with the product, but decided to give it a go and have never looked back since. To be 100% honest, I have yet to use traditional clay this year and can't see myself going back. Not only does the product offer so much more over traditional claying, it has literally cut down my claying time by more than 40%. I haven't gotten rid of traditional clay altogether because they may come a time when the clay alternative won't work as well, however for my normal car prep, even for the industrial paint overspray I have to say that Nanoskin is my "go-to".

The cost of a 200gram clay bar is normally around $20 +/- (depending on the manufacture, etc...) I normally break that clay bar up in 3, and can do 2-3 vehicles per clay section (all depending on how contaminated the vehicle is). That translates in doing 6-9 cars/200gram bar. So cost equates to $2-$3/car. Now if you drop the clay..... it goes in the trash!!! So your cost/car just went up!

The Nanoskin product has 4 different products in their line up, namely the mitt, the towel, the block, and the foam pad (for DA use). They also come in fine and medium grade. Unlike traditional clay, if you drop it you can rinse it and keep going. Each product within the line has pros/cons that I will address below (from my experience). But lets first explore the cost break down:

Mitt: ~$50
Towel: ~$60
Block: ~$13 (4.5"x 2.5")
DA Foam Pad: ~$55 (6") and $60 (4") which contains 2 pads


So far I've used every single one of the products in their line up. They all serve their purpose and will be used interchangeably at time depending on the what/where etc.., so I say get one of each and decide for yourself! I do have to say that I personally favor the towel and the DA pad ;). The claim with Nanoskin is that you can use it up to 80 times!!! Obviously this is depending on how the product is used, where it is used, how it is maintained etc.... If I were to evaluate it based on my experience so far (100+ cars with varying degrees of contaminants) I would say that I have yet to see anything close to 50% of the claim. I've used the fine grade and the medium grade interchangeably, and have to say that I don't really like the fine grade as it does require a little more effort than the medium grade to remove contaminants, however the medium grade seems a little aggressive for everyday use and has left marring behind (especially on softer paint) on more than one occasion. Here is my impression of each of the products in the line up:

Mitt:
The mitt is great if you have a dusty or freshly cleaned vehicle and decide that you would like to use a soapy bucket of suds as your lubricant. You use the MF side to sud up the panel you are working on, and use the clay side to decontaminate. I find the width to be just right for my hand but also find it hard to grasp at time, especially when a lot of resistance exists from the contamination. It contours nicely and will get almost everywhere. Where this product does not shine is in the clean up. No matter how many times you rinse it, you will always have soap suds coming out of the mitt. I personally cannot work with my hand in the pocket, so this functional cost is lost on me. The size is ~9"x6" which offers 54 sq.in of clay alternative. (cost/working sq.in.= $0.93/sq.in)

Towel:
The towel measures 12"x12" which offers 144 sq.in of clay alternative. You can use it exactly like the mitt, using a soapy bucket or can use it in combination with your favorite clay lube. It cleans up much easier than the mitt and is much more flexible than the mitt so can reach everything you need to reach (ie. around all the contours of a mirror, for example). Does the larger surface area speed up the process? Not really (well maybe a little)! Although you do have a great working surface area, you do have increased drag and therefore it is almost impossible to use the full 12"x12". What I end up having to do is to fold it in half which gives me a 6"x12" working surface. Even with that, the drag sometimes becomes a problem. I did find a GREAT way to work, which I will share later in the post. (cost/working sq.in.= $0.42/sq.in)
Block:
My experience with the block has not been the greatest. I have some "bear pads" for hands and this 2.5" wide block has been the death of me many times. My hands cramp in no time trying to hold on to it. It works exactly the same as the rest of the products however would not be my first recommendation. It does work great in smaller areas, but nothing that a folded towel can't get. Total working area is less than 11.25sq.in. (because of its rounded nose). Similar to the mitt, it does require a little effort to clean the foam core (if you chose to use it in combination with a soapy bucket as your lubricant) (cost/working sq.in.= $1.15/sq.in)

DA foam pad:
What a great invention! In the hands of a knowledgeable operator you can DRAMATICALLY cut down your time claying. Use the power of the machine instead of yours!! What a novel idea ;). I would advise using a traditional DA rather than a forced rotation DA as if you are lacking lubricant, the pad will stick to the paint marring it and leaving this gummy tar like residue. At least with a free spindle it will stop the rotation (somewhat). Another limitations of the DA pad is the backing plate, which does not contour well. You can use the DA pad on a hand applicator, but I have yet to try that alternative as the towel offers more advantage. Second to the towel, I would say this DA pad will remain in my arsenal until they discontinue it. Note of caution: You cannot really use this pad with a DA and a soapy bucket as your lubricant (ask me how I know), but with a non-foaming lubricant you are good to "Rock and Roll"! The total sq.in of working product is πr[SUP]2[/SUP]= 3.1416x(3")[SUP]2[/SUP]= 28.3sq.in.(cost/working sq.in.(6")= $1.94/sq.in) and for the 4" pack which contains 2 pads = 2x(πr[SUP]2[/SUP])= 2x(3.1416x(2")[SUP]2[/SUP])= 50.3sq.in. (cost/working sq.in.= $1.19/sq.in)

Conclusion: From experience, the towel is the most versatile, easiest to clean and offers the best cost/working sq.in., so why buy anything else? I don't have a real answer for you other than personal preference. In certain cases (in the case of a car with a lot of flat panels) I prefer the DA pad, which cuts down my work time DRAMATICALLY even over the towel or the mitt. The cost however is much greater. The current loser would have to be the block, although still better than the traditional clay. The towel can do most everything the block does and outclasses it in production speed and cost/working surface. Regardless of the product I worked with, I prefer the medium grade

So what else can we say??

Well the product functions like and sometimes better than clay which is cheaper..... or is it!?!?! If I can purchase a clay bar for $20 and get about 9 cars then my cost is $2.22/car. If I purchase a clay towel for $60 and get 1/2 of their claim (40 cars), then my cost is $1.5/car (and that is IF I get as much as 9 cars out of 200grams and a little as 40 cars out of a towel. Don't get me wrong, the cost is a concern, especially for people that are hobbyist, so I've been researching! My research was for 2 purpose, 1) Can I find something to improve my profitability (cost/car) and 2) could find a clay alternative which would be between the Nanoskin Fine and Medium grade...... and I did find it!

I've been a CarPro CQuartz Finest Certified Installer for a while and do purchase a lot of my products from Corey at CarPro-US. I had never really looked deep into Corey's whole inventory but one day decided to, and I found the CarPro Polyshave Decon products. I did have to inquire about them and from the description of it they sounded exactly like the Nanoskin product. I was intrigued by them but was confused that they only had one grade. Corey explained that from his experience (and as reported by others) that his product was a little more aggressive than the Nanoskin fine grade and closer to the medium grade. Had I found the Holy Grail? Well, I had just bought some new Nanoskin products, but I had to try it! For my test I decided to buy the towel (my go-to). It came in an inconspicuous box and looked EXACTLY the same as the Nanoskin towel!?! It had the same size, had the same look, had the same product feel. I could not detect any differences between the two products.

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My test was simple. I had a "new car prep" on a brand new BMW 740LI which needed to be clayed so I broke out the new CarPro Polyshave towel and gave it a go. I did use my favorite high lubricity soap and made a soapy bucket for claying purpose. At first the towel felt as though I was handling the Nanoskin towel but I soon found myself seeing some very slight difference. I could not test side by side since my Nanoskin counterpart was not "new", but recalling my experience with the fine and medium grade Nanoskin I could see what Corey was talking about, not as aggressive as medium but definitely more aggressive than fine. I was definitely liking it. I did have the same drag issue with using the towel completely open so folded it. This is where I definitely notice that it was an "in-between" grade, and I liked it even more!

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Before someone ask, YES I did do the initial break-in on the glass and then went to the paint. It was quick, it was painless... and it was better. It was almost like discovering Nanoskin all over again. I haven't tried the other products in his lineup but will. One of the trick I developed to combine the function of the mitt and the cost effectiveness of the towel was to create a makeshift facsimile. I wrap my decon towel around an Microfiber Madness Incredisponge and have much BETTER than "the best of both world". I can clean the panel with my Incredisponge, rinse it, wrap the towel around it and clay the panel without fears of running out of lubricant. If I do see that lubricity is not enough, I just squeeze the Incredisponge and this dispenses however much soapy suds I want/need.

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So what does CarPro Polyshave have in their line up?? They have:


Mitt: NO!
Towel: ~$30 (which measures 12"x12", same as Nanoskin which costs $60)
Block: ~$18 (currently on sale for $13.99) which measures 4.25"x 2.75" (very comparable to the Nanoskin which is 4.5"x 2.5" and costs $13)
DA Foam Pad (6'): ~$30 (compared to $55 for the Nanoskin product). They do not offer a 4"


I am not sad that they are not offering the mitts since I don't really enjoy cleaning and drying the Nanoskin one I have, and not exactly having an issue with the block being more expensive since I don't really reach for the blocks I have very often, BUT I was thrilled to have found a product that cost 1/2 as much, and still performs as well as my beloved Nanoskin (actually better). My cost/car with this product is $0.75/car using the towel or pad!! The cost/working surface area also dramatically decreased, since it is the same surface area for half the price.

I haven't used the CarPro Polyshave product long enough to tell you how many cars it can do, but through my experimentation and seeing how the product wears with use I am making a solid speculation that both the CarPro Polyshave and Nanoskin Autoscrub product will last about same. In prior thread I had been reluctant in recommending the huge investment for a weekend hobbyist, although I would rant and rave about it for all weekend detailers and pros, however at the CarPro price point, I can't imagine not HIGHLY recommending it for EVERYONE!

I sure hope to hear from others experience, and will keep you updated in the longevity of the product.
As usual, I welcome your questions, your comments and suggestions!!
 
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AWESOME and much needed review Claude!! We don't put any fancy labels and packaging around it but it sure performs well! I hope your great review will help a lot of people as I believe it will. Btw... I LOVE your "incredi-shave" combo you created :))
 
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You are making me regret purchasing my second mitt :(!! Thanks for the great review though. Next time I guess I will be trying one of the towels. Odds are Corey's, from what you have stated. I have yet to use a nanoskin as part of the wash routine though. I typically wash, iron x, nanoskin with ONR lube, and then continue on whatever course I am on.
 
You are making me regret purchasing my second mitt :(!! Thanks for the great review though. Next time I guess I will be trying one of the towels. Odds are Corey's, from what you have stated. I have yet to use a nanoskin as part of the wash routine though. I typically wash, iron x, nanoskin with ONR lube, and then continue on whatever course I am on.

Sorry bro! If you haven't use it you can return it for a merchandise credit or ?!
 
Is anyone doing more than just rinsing these clay alternatives off with running water to clean them?

Maybe Iron-X?
 
Although the post was awhile ago, I have a small soapy bucket set aside to clean off clay alternative products then rinse. I have used The CP Snow X soap.

Steve
 
For some odd reason I think I heard somewhere that you can not/should not use soapy water with these polymerized decon towels & pads.
I heard it breaks them down and ruins them. Please correct me if I'm mistaken. It's for that reason I use a good clay lube or an ONR mixture.
 
I use the Glide as the lubricant but will use soap and water to rinse off the bar to rid it of built on contaminants.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to research.
 
For some odd reason I think I heard somewhere that you can not/should not use soapy water with these polymerized decon towels & pads.
I heard it breaks them down and ruins them. Please correct me if I'm mistaken. It's for that reason I use a good clay lube or an ONR mixture.

I've used the wash mitt for over year with soapy water and onr with no problems.
 
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I've used the wash mitt for over year with soapy water and onr with no problems.

I second that! I try and use pH neutral soap rather than use pH balanced, which I am sure may make a slight difference, but I do wonder now if I've been shortening the life of my mitts and towels using soap. If someone finds a link to the recommendation or know the reason and science behind the recommendation away from traditional soaps.... please share!
 
I recently used the nanoskin block on my wife's car with good results and no micro marring. Then decided to try the carpro towel on my car and I didn't stop and check, but after and looking hard, I had tons of micro marring... I was using nano glide as lube in both applications. Is there any special tips to using the carpro Polyshave towel? I now will have to polish my car to get rid of all the micro marring :( but decided to do it next spring.
 
Interesting. I've used the towel but not the block. Although I want to buy the block, and will do so soon. Anytime I have used the towel is because I was going to get out the rupes anyways. Either way, anytime you introduce a rubbing action to the clear, you chance it. I'm certainly not sticking up for the towel, but Ive used it without that problem myself. Hmm...
 
I can't definitely say it was the towel, it could be the user :) the clear on my car probably softer than my wife's car, or many other factors... I think I had enough lube as the towel never grabbed as was mostly gliding. it sucks because my car is not even 6 months old and in one process I marred the heck out of it but it's very hard to see it even w the appropriate angle and light.
 
Unless you did a thorough inspection prior to the towel, the micro marring sounds perfectly normal, being that the dealer most likely touched it before you did.
 
To be honest, I didn't inspect prior, but the marring pattern is very much indicative of some back and forth horizontal action and seem to be more on the lower parts of the vertical panels (doors, rear fenders, ...) maybe they were there, maybe I did them, but I like the version that they were introduced during the dealer prep, so I don't blame myself :cool: maybe it's time to buy a new polisher Rupes, you say!
 
By chance, what grade was the block vs. The towel? Fine, medium?

Can you eleborate more on your steps for each process? I'm guessing you broke it in, washed and chemically deconed both cars the same way? Seeing that it was two different cars it could be two different levels of contaminants...no two vehicles are the same.


Steve
 
Hi, yes the process was the same for both cars, my wife's car was probably more contaminated as it its one year old, and mine 6 month old and protected day one with Klasse sealant. I broke both clays on windshield w lube, until it became soapy, but the towel was less soapy/white then the pad. I used the nanoskin fine block (blue) on her car, and the carpro Denon towel on mine, I think the latter comes in one grade, whatever it is. As you say, if the towel was a bit coarser and if my car was less contaminated, it may explain the micro marring.

The process is the usual minus the polishing: 3 bucket wash, dry, decontaminate (Sonax fallout cleaner), wash, dry, clay, eraser then followed by CQUK, and car stayed two days in garage after. I didn't apply reload, will do it after next two washes.

I was hasty I should have used the towel on a small panel on my car and check, and also check thoroughly if there was any marring from before. Next spring or winter I'll redo the job completely and with polishing, I just didn't think it'd be needed. And to be clear, I am not saying that the towel did introduce the micro marring, rather could it if it is coarser than other products or is there some steps I missed when using it. Thank you!
 
Very good. Whenever doing Mechanical Deconing, I anticipate a polishing step. Sometimes you luck out...
Always a great idea to test a spot to see what is needed, as you noted.

Btw, Welcome aboard!
 
Thank you for your help and welcome! and love all the advice I am getting on this forum. Off topic, Next acquisition is some new polishing machine, i still have the 12 year old PC7424 shush... i kept on reading "rupes" whenever the cookie monster would reply and subliminally i realized he was marketing the Rupes polishing machine :-) nice but darn expensive.
 
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